For 2015, Rolex unveiled a new 39 mm diameter Oyster Perpetual model, with the option of a Red Grape, Blue or Dark Rhodium dial. All three versions look great, although it is the latter version that impressed us the most.

Dominated by a Dark Rhodium sunburst finish, topped with applied 18k white gold hour indexes, complimented by blue dots, phosphorescent material at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock and 18K white gold baton-shaped hands – the new Oyster Perpetual dial is quite stunning.

And the juxtaposition of the highly polished, domed bezel, against the middle case which is satin-brushed – except on the flanks and edges which are polished – is just right. Not to mention, at 39 mm in diameter, the new size is ideal for my wrist (about 7.5 inches around).

Thanks to a screw-down crown with a Twin lock gasket system, as well as gaskets on the front (sapphire) and solid 904L steel back, the Oyster Perpetual is water-resistant to 100 meters, which is perfect for the swimming and other aquatic activities.

A self-winding movement, caliber 3132, beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and drives the centrally mounted hour, minute and seconds hands. The 31 jewel movement features a bi-directional rotor and a maximum power reserve of 48-hours. Pulling out the crown stops the balance and allows for ultra-precise time setting down to the second. This is a COSC-certified chronometer after all.

Precision and robustness is enhanced by a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, high-performance Parallax shock absorbers, a traversing balance bridge, a large balance wheel with variable inertia with high-precision regulation via four gold Microstella nuts.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual (Ref. 114300) is paired with a 904L steel bracelet (70400) that is satin-finished with polished edges, secured by a folding Oysterclasp.

Final Thoughts

Rolex has taken their original water-resistant watch, with a heritage dating back to 1926, and made it in a more contemporary size, without going so big as to lose the appeal of those of us with conservative tastes. Further, the dark rhodium sunburst dial is a fashionable color that infuses the collection with a more modern aesthetic. All for a retail price of $5,700.

Jason Pitsch
Posted by:Jason Pitsch

Jason Pitsch is the founder and editor of Professional Watches. He appreciates good design and engineering in everything from architecture to automobiles to cameras to clothing. Yet his focus for the past decade has remained consistent on covering just one type of craftsmanship: watchmaking.