This is the NOMOS Glashütte Tangomat GMT, which shares the same German in-house manufactured “Xi” caliber movement as the Zürich Weltzeit, but with a slightly different aesthetic. Where the city and 24-hour home time wheels on the Weltzeit are exposed via a large circular cut-out on the dial, the Tangomat dial only exposes the city and the current home time via small apertures. The concept is the same, though, you push the button at 2 o’clock to advance the hours on the central hand, which represents the local time and coincides with the city indicator at 9 o’clock. And the home time, which is displayed at 3 o’clock, is set via the crown.
The Tangomat GMT comes in a 40 mm by 10.85 mm stainless steel case with a domed sapphire and sapphire crystal caseback. The hour, minute and small second hands are in blued steel. The hour markers are printed with 2, 4, 8, 10 and 12 marked by Arabic numerals. A red arrow at 3 o’clock points to the current home time which is represented in 24-hour military format.
The Xi movement has a stop seconds mechanism, a Glashütte three-quarter plate, 26 jewels, Glashütte stopwork, a bidirectional winding rotor, Incabloc shock protection, balance spring from Nivarox 1A, adjusted in six positions, tempered blue screws, rhodium-plated movement surfaces with Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS perlage in black gold, ratchet and duplex wheel with Glashütte sunburst and a skeletonized rotor. Power reserve is 42-hours.
The Tangomat GMT comes on a black Horween Shell Cordovan strap that is 20 mm wide. Like the Orion 38 Grau that we covered earlier this year, the Tangomat GMT represents an excellent value with its in-house made movement for under $5k. (Ref. 635)