Le Sentier, Switzerland-based independent watch company, Romain Gauthier, has unveiled two “Enraged” limited edition collections.
The Logical One Enraged is a matte black version of the original Logical One that won the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve men’s complicated prize in 2013. And the Prestige HMS Enraged is a matte black version of the Prestige HMS timepiece.
Logical Enraged One
Typically, a cone-shaped fusée is used with a chain to deliver constant torque, however, the Logical One has a snail cam instead, allowing for the mainspring barrel to be on the same level, and so the transmission of power is in a straight line and therefore more efficient. This also allows the chain links to be much larger and stronger. Furthermore, instead of a traditional chain, this chain uses ruby inserts to minimize friction.
The result is not just a technical marvel but also a prominent chain, with ruby links, visible on the dial side. Best of all, the mainspring/chain is wound/driven via a push-button at 9 o’clock on the caseband.
The watch is essentially the same as the award-winning original Logical One but in matte black. To achieve this new aesthetic, the watchmakers at Romain Gauthier implemented a new over-fired black-enamel dial, with an 18K gold base, that was turned gray by hand-frosting. The stainless steel hands are skeletonized and feature a matte black treatment.
Using steel, beryllium copper, brass, titanium, and German silver – the movement, received a matte black treatment as well. Otherwise, the 35.5 mm x 10.5 mm caliber is the same – with a frequency of 4Hz, power reserve of 46-hours, 359 total components, 63 total jewels (26 just for the constant-force chain).
Finishing of the movement includes hand-finished rounded bevels and jewel counter sinks.
Of course, the case also received the full matte black treatment as well. It measures the same as before, at 43 mm x 15 mm, but is now crafted from grade 5 titanium with a sand-blasted matte black ADLC treatment. And like the original, there is a discrete, flat crown for setting the time at 2 o’clock, with a large pushbutton for winding at 9 o’clock. Water-resistance is 30 meters.
The matte black theme is completed with a black nubuck strap with stitching in color to match the dial and movement accents, with matte black titanium pin buckle. There are three variations available each in 5 numbered limited editions (dark accent dial, red accent dial, orange accent dial).
Prestige HMS Enraged
The Prestige HMS Enrgaged has the same matte black aesthetic as the aforementioned model with a matte black dial, hands, case, and movement. The off-center design features hours and minutes on the main dial, with skeleton hands, and a subdial in between 4 and 5 o’clock. All of the hands feature colored tips matching one of the three available dial accent colors.
Visible at 7 o’clock is the balance wheel which beats at 4Hz (or 28,800 vph). This movement, caliber 2206 HMS, is less complicated than the Logical One, with only 128 components, however, it is finished to the same exacting standards, including hand-finished rounded bevels and jewel counter sinks. It has a 60-hour power reserve and is, of course, matte black like the rest of the watch.
The case is 41 mm x 12.1 mm and is crafted in grade 5 titanium that has been given a sand-blasted matte black ADLC treatment.
One of the unique features is the large flat crown that is positioned on the caseback, not the caseband, which really makes this timepiece distinct. The downside to this design is a resulting water-resistance rating of only 10 meters.
The Prestige HMS Enraged is complemented by a black nubuck finish alligator strap with stitching that matches the accent color of the dial. Like the Logical One, this piece is available in three 5 piece numbered limited editions: red, orange, and dark.
Both collections will be on display at Baselworld 2017, which takes place March 23-30.