The Grand Seiko x Watches of Switzerland “Toge” GMT Special Edition features a British racing green colored dial — tying in Watches of Switzerland’s UK heritage.
The new Grand Seiko GMT Ref. SBGN241 is based on the popular SBGM series —which we reviewed in 2016 — and is presented in the same 39.5 mm x 14 mm stainless steel case.
Offered at Watches of Switzerland boutiques and select Mayors locations in the USA, as well as Watches of Switzerland stores in the UK, this special edition was designed by Grand Seiko’s Chief Designer, Nobuhiro Kosugi, and features the Mount Iwate texture on the dial in dark green combined with hints of yellow found on the signature green race cars.
According to Grand Seiko, “The term 峠 (Tōgè), or mountain pass, refers to a navigable route through a mountain range, and this special edition timepiece subtly evokes the image of a spirited drive over the many ridges of Mount Iwate in Northern Japan.”
Like previous Grand Seiko GMT SBGM references the hour and minute hands have a faceted Dauphine style blade design, the center-mounted sweeping seconds hand is baton-shaped, and for this model the arrow-shaped GMT hand is gold-toned. Prominent baton-shaped hour indices have been diamond cut with 5 angled edges, polished, and applied by hand.
Driving the hour, minute, seconds, 24-hour GMT hand, and the date display is Grand Seiko’s automatic in-house caliber 9S66 with stop-seconds function and which runs at 4Hz, has 225 components, 35 jewels, and a 72-hour power reserve.
Technologically the movement has a Spron balance spring, MEMS escapement, and Spron mainspring which provide high accuracy and stability. The movement is adjusted in 6 positions with an accuracy rating of -3 to +5 seconds per day in static conditions and -1/+10 with normal usage. The balance wheel is mounted on a single-arm bridge and has an index regulator for easy rate adjustments.
The caseback is secured by 6 screws and has a sapphire crystal that offers a view of the oscillating balance wheel as it beats to and fro 28,800 per hour. You’ll also notice the gorgeous stripes on the skeletonized automatic winding rotor and bridges, which have been applied by a CAD machine. The edges of the bridges are non-chamfered, giving the movement an industrial look.
As with previous Grand Seiko GMTs, this version comes with a box-shaped sapphire crystal, weighs just 88 grams with the leather strap, and is water-resistant to 30 meters. The dark brown crocodile leather strap features green contrast stitching that matches the dial and is secured by a three-fold deployant clasp with push-button release.
This Grand Seiko x Watches of Switzerland “Toge” GMT Special Edition is not a limited or numbered edition, but production is limited. The watch retails for $5,200 and is available exclusively at Watches of Switzerland boutiques and select Mayors locations and online at www.watchesofswitzerland.com and www.mayors.com.