This year at Baselworld, Patek Philippe debuted a new World Time watch (Ref. 5230), available in white or rose gold, replacing all previous models. The new timepiece has a number of subtle changes, including a new time zone dial, a slightly redesigned case, and new hands.
Dubai now supplants Riyadh and Brisbane replaces Noumea. Another change involves Moscow, which switched from UTC+4 to UTC+3. In addition, Patek Philippe has updated the case with winglet-style lugs and the narrower polished bezel. A new pierced gold hour hand replaces the former ring-shaped hand and shows the contours of the “Southern Cross” constellation. And the minute hand is now lozenge-shaped.
Notably, the dial features a new dark grey hand-guilloched center, featuring a basket weave pattern.
Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230 is powered by automatic caliber 240 HU, which features an off-center 22K micro-rotor and measures just 3.88 mm in thickness. Thanks to a slim movement the Calatrava case design is also very sleek. It measures a nearly ideal – in my opinion – 38.50 mm in diameter by 10.23 mm thick, and 46.91 mm in length, making it perfect for elegant occasions. Additionally, from 9 to 3 o’clock including the crown, the watch measures 41.45 mm across. And the width in between the lugs is 20 mm.
The central hour hand shows the local time, in conjunction with the city name that is positioned at 12 o’clock, and designated by the red arrow. The pusher at 10 o’clock advances the city ring, in one-hour increments, which synchronizes simultaneously with the central hour hand and 24-hour ring (that rotates counter-clockwise). In changing the time zone, the integrated time zone mechanism is uncoupled from the movement, preventing the minute hand and amplitude from being adversely affected. At this point, you can read the 23 other time zones, from the 24-hour ring, at a glance, including whether it is day or night in each respective time zone.
The movement beats at 3Hz (21,600 vph) and the micro-rotor winds unidirectionally, for a power reserve of 48-hours. The regulating assortment includes a free sprung Gyromax balance wheel and a Spiromax balance spring.
As mentioned above, the new Patek Philippe World Time watch is available in 18K rose gold (Ref. 5230R) or 18K white gold (Ref. 5230G). Both versions have the same dial, with the exception of the applied baton-shaped hour markers, and hands, which match the gold of the case, respectively. The rose gold model comes with a shiny chocolate brown hand-stitched alligator strap with large scales and a rose gold Calatrava fold-over clasp. And the white gold comes with a shiny black version, with a white gold clasp. Water-resistance is 30 meters.
Patek Philippe has taken their iconic World Timer and made some subtle upgrades without greatly affecting the overall look, something that will surely appeal to the brand’s purist collectors, and new buyers alike. The retail price is $47,600.