MAITRES DU TEMPS Chapter One
[ via SwissTime ]
The first watch from new brand Maitres du Temps is the Chapter One and it's practically a book unto itself. The new brand was founded by Steven Holtzman the ex-distributor of Roger Dubuis in North America and will showcase designs from Christophe Claret, Roger Dubuis and Peter Speake-Marin.
The ease of both reading and adjusting Chapter One's many indications disguises the fact that this is a world-first combination of complications crafted from 558 components. No other wristwatch has featured a tourbillon with mono-pusher column wheel chronograph, retrograde date, and retrograde GMT, as well as moon phase and day of the week on their own rolling bars. Long, flowing compound curves traverse the case while scintillating laser-pierced moon and stars on the outer roller of the moon phase indicator add to its stellar elegance.
Their first model is the Chapter One which is thickly stuffed with complications including a tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, and two rolling bars at 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock, indicating the day of the week and phase of the moon. A small window between the day roller and tourbillon allows a peek at the gyrating tourbillon cage. The watch is done in an 18K red gold case and has some pretty hefty dimension, 62.60 mm x 45.90 mm
A tour of the dial reveals central coaxial hours, minutes, and chronograph 60-second counter; tourbillon and day of the week roller at 6 o'clock; retrograde GMT at 9 o'clock; 60-minute chronograph counter and precision moon phase roller at 12 o'clock; and retrograde date at 3 o'clock.
The two rollers work simultaneously with the time, date, GMT, and chronograph and are large enough to be easily read and small enough to be ultra-light and homogeneous with the case.
A small window between day roller and tourbillon allows a unique view of the superbly finished gyrating tourbillon cage.
Mirror-polished angled surfaces bring the multi-level dial to life, and even the locking corrector pushers are from curves meeting at an imaginary point to follow the graceful flow of the case.
Manual-wind mechanical movement, one-minute tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date indicator, retrograde GMT indicator, day of the week indication on roller, patented precise moon phase indication on roller.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Functions:
Two-position winding crown: pushed in to wind the watch; pulled out to set the time
Chronograph: start/stop/return-to-zero function activated by single pusher in the crown
Displays:
Central hands indicating hours and minutes
Central chronograph counterpoised second hand
60-minute counter at 12 o'clock
Retrograde date at 3 o'clock
Retrograde GMT at 9 o'clock
One-minute tourbillon at 6 o'clock
Day of the week indication on roller at 6 o'clock
Patented precise moon phase indication on roller at 12 o'clock
Correctors:
Date corrector at 2 o'clock
Day of the week corrector at 4 o'clock
Moon phase corrector at 8 o'clock
GMT corrector at 10 o'clock
Calibre SHC02:
Dimensions: 51.3 mm x 31.6 mm
Number of components: 558
Number of jewels: 58
Power reserve: 60 hours
Tourbillon rotation: 60 seconds
Balance frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Case:
18K red gold
Number of components: 104
Dimensions: 62.60 mm x 45.90 mm
Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
Display back: sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
High polish and satin finishes on compound-curve surfaces
Correctors with integrated locking system
Dial:
18K gold
Number of components: 7
Multi-faceted and beveled
Printed Roman numerals
Engine-turned sun-ray guilloche
Red counterpoised chronograph hand
Blue sword-shaped hands for chronograph counter, hour, minute, date, and GMT
Rollers:
Day barrel: anodized anticorodal finished aluminum
Moon phase barrel: anodized anticorodal finished aluminum inside a matte anodized cover with laser-pierced moon and stars
Window between day roller and tourbillon
Strap:
Alligator strap with 18K red gold deployant buckle
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